dinsdag 27 september 2011

Golden Daemon UK, quick update

Just a quicky, for all you guys follwing me. I went to the Golden Daemon competition with my goals set on making AT LEAST the finalist's cut, and hell yeah: I made that one!
I'll make sure to post some nice pics of the full, completed model as soon as possible, but for now I just wanted to share this with you all!

I had a blast during the weekend, and topped it off with this. Had a chance to meet up with Loler from Brush Bothers (you did a great paintjob on that 40K single, man! Tell me how you fared on all your categories, ok?), and I had some good critisism from a few guys, like Tyr, Robert Sta and some others. Should have asked for some advice from the Design Studio, stupid I didn't think of it then. Hell, we were in a hurry anyway...!

Yay!


maandag 19 september 2011

Just another rust tutorial

I got a bit of spare time, so I decided to do a quick tutorial on easy rust and weathering effect - a kind request of/ offer to Warpaintguy, who also did a great tutorial on the same topic. Here's to you, my friend!

For purposes of this tutorial only, I took a termminator that was already basecoated white. There is no specific reason why it is undercoated in white. It just was.

To create the best view for this effect, I decided to create a light toned color for the armour. In this case, a blueish grey. Beware, if you want to try this on WHITE (really, almost pure white), much of the effect later on will be undone as part of it is a white highlight - as you will see later on:


Now here is where I am missing a picture, but I think I can describe it. I used Dark Flesh and dabbed with a rough brush on the right side on the rims of the armour parts. On the left side, I used a sponge of sorts (it actually is the same stuff models are packed in in blisters), and stamped the same color on. it makes for a more realistic effect, but is also harder to maintain, or even control.

After this stage, I took Fiery Orange and stippled a bit inside the blotches of Dark Flesh. On the next picture you can see those stipples, as well as the difference between a brush and a sponge.


Now comes the harder parts, where you have to use a small brush and do some fine lines on exactly the right spots. I took the shading lines (Chaos Black) first, but you can do the highlights first too.
Now what I am about to explain is gonna be a complicated story, but when you see it, it all makes perfetly sense (Ihope). What you are painting for shading, is the shade where the top part of a blotch of rust is covered with the armour's original paint. So in short: put a fine line of black along the top parts of the rust spots. But there is one exception: if there is no paint above it (for instance because it ends in the rim of the armour), then leave it: Here are some views:




Now we do the other part: the highlight. For this, we do exactly the opposite of the shade. You are actually painting the part where  the light reflects off of the inside of the chipped off paint - which is actually on the bottom side of the rust spots. Now the exception here is where there is no paint under the rust due to the rust coming to the end of the armour:





You'll see when you add this last part, you really get the depth of the weathering in. If you can do this really neat and correct, you can paint indentations, chips, cuts and scrapes and have people ask you what tool you used to make that battle damage - only to reveal it was all painted on!

Some tips:
* you could also stipple a bit of a metallic in the biggest chips, to have the metal show underneat the rust.
* It should be aparent by now why this would lose a lot of it's effect on white surfaces. It can still be done, but it might require another apporach of the dilemma.
* Even really small dots can be made to have depth, if you use a brush small enough, and just plae a white dot under and just left (or right) of the rust dot. Make sure both dots border eachother - don't leave a gap!
* For better effect, really take a good look at WHERE rust realistically might appear, and HOW it behaves. Use some dark brown washes and draw a few water leaks starting from chips, to make it more weathered, old, worn.

HAPPY PAINTING!
Oh: and please, never hesitate to leave a comment, even just to say hi! I might just say hi back :)

zaterdag 17 september 2011

First WBC commission done

As I add the finishing touches to my Golden Daemon entry, I decide it is time to finish the work for my first commissionwork, done as Winged Brush Co. For a webshop Dragonminiatures.com we were asked to paint the Cairn Wraith and the Tomb Banshee as a trial for morework. Here's our work:

Tyr's Cairn Wraith:




And my own Tomb Banshee:




dinsdag 13 september 2011

Dark Angels Veteran, Part 6 - the end...for now

Thanks to Ioler from The Brush Brothers's comment on my last post, I went back to the model for a quick extra (Thanks, Ioler, for the kind words and the helpfull tip!). I added a few notches and some blood splatter to the sword. And then pulled out my little DIY photo studio and took some better pics (although, somehow, my inferiour cam still does no credit to it...really! No, REALLY!). These will be the last pics I'll post of it, until Gamesday - I hope GW will make some great pictures of the model, if it pleases them :P
I still need to add the plaque with some text (have a good notion of what it should say), but that'll be for AFTER the event. Enjoy so far :D








zondag 11 september 2011

Dark Angels Veteran, Part 5 - ...and building it up again!

I had a good and productive day yesterday, with my good friend Tyr. Beforehand  I finished 'refurbishing' the Veteran model: I finished the casing of the plinth, added some gravel and sand on the base of the wall, and for some extra fluff, I thought a spent and thrown away Bolt Pistol would be cool, along with some shells etc.


So, in this state I took the model to Tyr's, and did some painting. I completely repainted the floor, so you might see some differences. Also, i found that the black banner did not stand out enough against the metallic wall, so i decided to add a kind of broken off plaster on it. I had to add some rust effects of sorts to the plaster wall, or else the cloak of the model would pale against it.
I am really joyed by how the bolter and shells come out, and it really does add extra flavor to the model.
Oh and sorry about the crappy iPhone pics...



Now what's left are some minor details on the wall, maybe a red line on the cloack, a bit of chipping to fix on the veteran, and create a nice plaque on the plinth. Am still doubting what it should say...any suggestions?

zondag 4 september 2011

Dark Angels Veteran, Part 4 - tearing it all down again

In order for my Golden Daemon entry to be legal in the Singles Category, it MUST be mounted on a gaming base. Dit poses a real problem, as the entire model has been glued and sculpted onto the square plinth. Damn, why didn't I think of this before?
I concocted a plan, and throughout the entire process, I was scared as hell I would damage the piece beyond repair. Luckily, after the necessary cutting, sawing and filling, the model itself was just lightly chipped (nothing that couldn't be touched up again), but the floorwork as well as the entire plinth needed some extensive plastic surgery.

First I cut off the top 5-6 mm of the plinth, just under the concrete floor. i had to be carefull not to destroy the floor-sculpt too much. Next, I drew a Terminator sized circle underneath, and used a fine figure saw to cut off the corners (as the square was 40x40 just like a terminator base is 40mm in diameter, it eventually came down to just that: cutting off corners!). I left the front corner intact, as it fully captures the impact from the powerfist, and I felt that much of it's power would be lost if I cut it up.

Next I glued the corners with some added height back onto the remaining plinth, and the cut-out piece onto the terminator base. a perfect fit!

I decided that the best way to go, was to add some extra depth on the back of the plinth bty adding some wood, and have the wall section stand a bit further away from the model. Then I glued plasticard all around, and have a smooth surface again. All I need to do now is work with putty to make a good transition from the models base to the plinth.

Also I have already fiddled a bit with some losose bits and stuff to create some more livelyness to the base. That concrete floor alone just doesn't cut it. I think I have a pretty cool idea to add, that tells a lot of story, yet leaves a lot to your own imagination. You'll see!

Still...so much to do...

donderdag 1 september 2011

Dark Angels Veteran, Part 3

I guess it's time for an update on the DA Veteran project. I have been quite busy, and with a good degree of yoy, as I was pushing myself to new hights once again.Here are some closeups of the Veteran himself. Just a few details left:

I really am fond of the smashed concrete :)

 I had a real brain fart on the background thing, and decided to sculpt a long banner along that wall. At first, I had this banner flow on the BACKSIDE of the entire model, but my girl conviced me to turn the wall around and have it face the viewer directly. She was - as always - exactly on the money! The model is so much more to look at now, and still does not draw attention from the main figure too much. I love it.


On the inside of the cover of the Dark Angels Codex, there's a foto of a scene, where on the walls are also these kinds of long banners, though made from paper probably. They depict a streched version of the Chapter Banner as shown further on in the codex. That was exactly the banner I wanted to paint on it, and I think I did a fair job.


At this moment, the banner is indeed finished, although I do not have pics of it yet. I am still working on some minor details on the wall, but have already glued the wall on the base.
Things left to do: add some debris along the walls edge, add broken stained glass in the windows, and funk up the base with something like a empty helmet of sorts...(with thanks to Tyr for these ideas).

And then there was a problem. Because in order to enter the category 'Single Model', it MUST stand on a gaming base. Weeellll... with my model SCULPTED onto the SQUARE plinth, that is posing to be a problem I might not solve without tearing the whole thing down. If all the sculpting would even survive that. The alternative is having it enter 'Open Category' instead, but then have it be diminished between all those awesome, and mostly BIG scenic entries...
Choices, choices...